Kyoto is a city full of historic temples, old neighborhoods and shrines. You can easily spend days there visiting different districts each day and still not covering all of Kyoto’s many sights. One of Kyoto’s most distinctive temples is Kiyomizudera Temple, located on a hill in the east. Outside the temple is a historic neighborhood that leads all the way to other famous temples such as Chionin Temple, Nanzenji Temple and Heian temple, which is based on Chinese Tang Dynasty temples. Going to all of these temples was a long walk that took up more than half a day and required lots of sweat, but no tears, as well a little sunburn (this being in the summer).
Founded in 780, Kiyomizudera or Pure Water Temple is one of the nation’s most famous temples and is an attractive complex with views overlooking the hill and the city. I could see the temple from my hotel and it was a relatively straightforward 20-minute walk to get to Kiyomizudera. The temple is one of 17 sites in Kyoto that are collectively UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The front features two tall pagodas, then the main temple itself. After that, there are a few small shrines including one devoted to Okuninushi, the god of love, and a small waterfall (which is basically just a trickle) with supposedly pure water, which the temple was named after, that people lined up to drink from. Right below the temple is a neighborhood of traditional shops and teahouses, part of the Higashiyama District. It’s said to be a remnant of old Kyoto, with wooden buildings and independent shops, cafes and restaurants, and I don’t doubt it. It’s a pleasant atmosphere and there are no cars so you’re free to walk right on the streets and lanes.
Walking west from Higashiyama District, I briefly visited Chionin Temple, which is Buddhist. Chionin’s entrance features a giant wooden gate, the 24-meter-tall Sanmon Gate which is Japan’s largest such gate. The actual temple was undergoing renovation and was completely covered by a facade that made it seem like a wooden building. I’d seen the structure when I came in but walked around trying to find the temple before realizing that that wooden building was it. The fact they’d covered the entire temple so thoroughly was because the renovation was going to go on for 7 years (2012-2019)! The Japanese don’t mess around when it comes to doing things carefully and thoroughly, unlike a certain giant Asian neighbor.
Nanzenji Temple is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temples in Japan. It is situated in a large, pleasant compound where there is the Hojo, the temple’s main hall; the Nanzenin, former villa of a 13th century emperor; several other temples, as well as a large, brick aqueduct that was used to carry water and goods between Kyoto and Lake Biwa. The Hojo is a large wooden complex that served as the residence of the chief priest and features a rock garden, while the Nanzenin is where the emperor Kameyama resided after retiring and features a beautiful garden with a large pond. While it is free to enter the grounds, each of the main sites like the Hojo and Nanzenin require separate entrance tickets. Nanzenji Temple was the best of all the places I visited on this day, and the large ground and multiple temples within it meant it was very serene with not many visitors.
Heian temple was a brightly coloured Shinto shrine complex whose buildings resembled Chinese temples due to green wavy tiles. Built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of Kyoto becoming the imperial capital, the temple is not that old and as such, I didn’t find it as appealing as the other temples.
Okuninushi, the god of love, and his rabbit sidekick in Kiyomizudera Temple
Leaving Kiyomizudera Temple takes you through this traditional neighborhood
Chionin Temple’s massive Sanmon gate
Nanzenji Temple’s Hatto (dharma hall)
Nanzenin Temple, former villa of an emperor
Aqueduct
Hojo, Nanzenji’s main hall
Rock garden inside the Hojo
Heian Temple
Even the side streams in the surrounding neighborhood were pleasant
