Thailand is famous for a few things, with Muay Thai or Thai kickboxing being one of them. Known as the “art of eight limbs” due to the prominent use of elbows and knees in striking, muay thai is a violent but beautiful martial art that might be tough to practice, but fun to watch. Across the country, live fights are held every week while being broadcast on TV. Bangkok, being the capital, boasts the two most prestigious Muay Thai stadiums – the new Lumpinee and Rajadamnern.
If you are visiting Bangkok and are a fan of martial arts, want to see a live event of any kind, or want a local experience, I would encourage you to go see a Muay Thai fight live.
Many years ago on my first visit to Bangkok, I went to the old Lumpinee to watch an event in the evening. It didn’t disappoint. The fightcard had over eight fights, with a one or two knockouts, ranging from hardened veterans to young up-and-comers to teenage boys, which did make me a little uneasy. But the atmosphere was fantastic as the audience got really loud at times, especially as many Thais love to bet on the fights, which goes on at the same time.
Anyways, the old Lumpinee, which was near a subway station, was since closed down and then reopened in a new venue at a different location that is a little further away from town. This means you need to take a taxi to get to the new stadium (and back as well), which is inconvenient. Rajadamnern is also not near a subway station, but it is inside the city so it is easier to get to. Events at Lumpinee and Rajadamnern are held in the evenings and are pricy for non-Thais, who get charged multiple times what locals pay.
However, if you want to watch a fight live in the afternoon and for free, then head to the Channel 7 compound on Sundays. This is actually televised by Channel 7 hence the event is held inside an actual arena inside their compound. I went to a Channel 7 fight last year and for a free event, it is quite good value.
The studio is near the famous Chattuchak Market,Bangkok’s biggest weekend market. You cross the main road from Chattuchak, then head up and into a side street. Since the arena is inside a TV studio, it’s not as big as the main stadiums which I mentioned above, but it gets full quickly.
It is a very raucous environment, especially if you happen to be in the stands where locals are shouting out or offering bets during each fights. The fights were mostly eventful, though I remember one that went the distance but I was puzzled by who the win was awarded to. There were a couple of TKOs but no outright knockouts. During a fight, the most exciting moment is not kicks or punches but when the fighters clinch and exchange knees.
Because I hadn’t been to the Channel 7 compound before, I actually arrived about 45 minutes early. I took a peek inside the venue, saw a lot of empty seats, so I took a walk around the block and came back. This time, the stands were packed so I went to the side where there were some empty seats. It turned out this was where a lot of bookies were operating, and I jostled with an older man who demanded I give up my seat. I didn’t and he eventually squeezed in next to me, and we spent the whole event side by side.
This old guy was one of the main bookies who kept shouting out bets and taking in money throughout the fight. As I don’t know Thai, I couldn’t understand exactly what was going on but I know that the betting would be especially frenetic when people though a knockout would happen.
The event was a loud, action-packed affair though as is normal, the main fights are in the middle and the final two or three fights were a little weak. I stayed till near the end but many people left after the main fight finished.
I would encourage you to go to the new Lumpinee or Rajadamnern to watch a fight for the full experience, since the best fighters compete on their cards, but Channel 7 fights are a good and free alternative.
Before the fights, you can see fighters outside the entrance preparing for their bouts.
