Visiting Thailand’s ancient capital Sukothai

Thailand has had three main capitals. Before its current capital Bangkok, there was Ayutthaya; before Ayutthaya, there was Sukhothai. Located in central Thailand, about midway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Sukhothai was the capital of the Sukhothai kingdom, the first Thai state, from the mid-13th century to the mid-15th century. It was then absorbed by the Ayutthaya kingdom, which had actually invaded and defeated Sukhothai in the mid-14th century.

Nowadays, Sukhothai’s old temples and structures are preserved as a historical park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, similar to Ayutthaya. However, Sukhothai is more isolated and peaceful, in contrast to Ayutthaya, making it great to ride around by bicycle. Sukhothai’s buildings are smaller and less elaborate than Ayutthaya. I would say that while Ayutthaya’s buildings are more impressive than Sukhothai’s, as a whole, Sukhothai is more interesting to visit.

Sukhothai’s sites are divided into three main zones – Central, North, and West, with a southern one extending into a neighboring village. There is also an east zone which is actually before the main entrance. Each of the main zones requires a small but separate entrance fee to enter, while the south and east sites are free to explore.

The Central zone is the largest by far as it was the walled city, so you should always start there. It is. The north features several large buildings, while the west is more isolated and lightly forested and hilly (several structures are on small hills). The south also features some interesting buildings, which lie amongst a village.

There are two Sukhothais- the actual Sukhothai historical park, while about 20 minutes’ drive to the east along a straight road is “new Sukhothai,” a mid-sized town where most people stay (as did I). I got to Sukhothai by train from Bangkok to Phitsanulok, the closest city with a train station (and which I had never heard of before doing the research for how to get to Sukhothai), then a one-hour bus to “new Sukhothai.” Alternatively, you can also fly to “new Sukhothai” or to Phitsanulok.

Here are the main sites I visited in the Central and North zones below. I will feature sites in the other zones in an upcoming post.

Wat Si Sawai, a former Hindu temple that features three prangs (towers)Wat Mahathat was Sukhothai’s most important temple and is the largest site in the central zone

Standing Buddha in Wat Mahathat

Sitting Buddha in Wat Mahathat

Wat Sa Si features a photogenic sitting Buddha framed by columns and is located on a small lake

Wat Sa Si’s pagodas

Wat Sorasak, a chedi (dome) that is “guarded” by 24 white stone elephants at its base
Wat Tra Phang Ngoen’s ordination hall is in the middle of this lake (different from Wat Sa Si), while its main chedi is located next to it (below)

Statue of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, who is credited with creating the Thai alphabet. Built in 1969, this is one of the few modern structures in the historical park.

Wooden bridge into the North zone

Wat Phra Phai Luang is one of Sukhothai’s oldest temples and is where the city was originally located. While heavily ruined, it is still very attractive and is the North zone’s largest site.

Wat Phra Phai Luang’s white prang 
The north zone’s second most interesting site Wat Si Chum features a distinctive boxy structure in which is enclosed a giant sitting Buddha (below)