As the resting place of one of Japan’s greatest shoguns (military rulers of the nation) and just under two hours from Tokyo by train, Nikko is a great daytrip if you’re spending a few days in Japan’s capital. Situated in a hilly and forested region, Nikko is a fitting place to honor a former ruler like Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate that ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868, in Toshogu, Japan’s most lavish shrine.
Besides Toshogu, Nikko also boasts a second well-known mausoleum honoring Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemitsu, who was also a shogun. Iemitsu’s mausoleum, Taiyuinbyo, was deliberately designed to be more modest than Toshogu, and is located in more quiet surroundings.
Built in the early 17th century, Toshogu is famous for its very lavish Yomeimon Gate (photo at the top of this page), which is topped by a massive wooden roof adorned by exquisite carvings. Inside, the main buildings are just as beautiful and exquisite, with fancy carvings and gold leaf decor that is very different from most Shinto shrines.
Inside the front of Toshogu are a five-story pagoda and several storehouses featuring carvings of the “see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil” monkeys and some distorted elephants, carved by an artist who had never seen elephants in real life.
After the storehouses is Yomeimon Gate, and the main buildings include the Honjido hall and the main shrine, all very beautiful. At the side of the complex is a flight of stairs leading upwards past massive trees to the actual mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu.
After you leave Toshogu, turn right (westwards) and walk straight for about 10 minutes. You will then come upon Taiyuinbyo. After you enter, you will be greeted by an open space surrounded by forest. You’ll probably also realize there is noticeably less visitors than Toshogu. When you head up the stairs, you will pass the Niomon Gate, then the fancier Nitenmon Gate. The main hall is after Nitenmon Gate, while the actual mausoleum of Iemitsu is after the main hall.
On the path to Toshogu is Rinnoji Temple, Nikko’s most important one. However, at the time I visited, it was under renovation and thus completely shrouded.
Nikko also features an onsen hot spring, a few other temples as well as a scenic lake, waterfalls and hiking trails, so it is possible to stay overnight or a couple of days and have a good time. For me, the scenic surroundings of Nikko were as much an attraction as the exquisite shrine buildings.
How to get there: Take a Tobu Railways train from Asakusa Tobu station, with the fastest express trains, which I took, taking two hours while slower and cheaper trains take a little longer. You can also take JR trains from Shinjuku station which are also two hours.
Note: From the Nikko rail station, you need to take buses to the various sites above since they are not close. There are different passes available which cover the train between Tokyo and Nikko, local buses as well as admission to various sites.
Entering Toshugu shrine, the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu
See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil!
Stairs leading to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s actual mausoleum
Taiyuinbyo shrine, the second of Nikko’s shogunate mausoleums
Nitenmon Gate
Iemitsu’s mausoleum
One of the shrines between Toshugu and Taiyuinbyo mausoleums
The train back to Tokyo
