If you want to learn more about England beyond just touristy and famous places, Engel’s England is a book you should try. This massive book (over 500 pages) covers the entirety of England as author Matthew Engel visited all 39 historic counties as well as London itself. However, let me first make it clear that this is a book aimed more at English readers than international ones.

The book isn’t about introducing the counties to foreign readers but searching out and highlighting the essence of these places. That means it can get really local in some parts, with a lot of local descriptions and references such as obscure traditions or festivals specific to the county, town or village. Engels drove around a lot, especially to little-known small towns and rural villages, which does make much of the book “off the beaten track.”

This also means that you get a really in-depth feel of these counties and their assorted towns and villages. Big cities are often skipped or briefly mentioned, such as Manchester in the Lancashire chapter, which takes up less than 1 page. I learnt interesting things such as that Leicestershire still practices foxhunting, albeit in a controlled manner, while the sport of cricket was invented in a southern coastal county (I’d always thought it originated more in the midlands). I also learnt about Rutland, England’s tiniest county, which was actually abolished before being reinstated after a spirited campaign by residents to get back their county status.

Admittedly, parts of it were tough to get through, especially in the beginning, but the more I read on, the more I enjoyed it. Some chapters were very much a pleasure to read. And in the end, I felt like I had completed a major journey of my own.