In a country as flush with great traveling destinations like Sri Lanka, the capital city Colombo hardly gets any mention. Now, if you’re flying in from elsewhere, chances are it will be to Colombo. From there, most people will go on to other places like Kandy or Galle or the beach towns along the west and south coasts. That’s actually what I did since I went straight to Galle as soon as I landed in Colombo. I did return to Colombo twice – first to go on to Kandy in the center of the country, then to leave at the end of my trip.
Colombo didn’t impress me much at first. Most of it is built up, but it isn’t as modern as Bangkok nor as charming as Hanoi. It doesn’t feature very famous landmarks. But when I think about all the places I went to there, Colombo is actually a very decent city.
Situated right by the sea, Colombo has a coastal stretch of greenery that faces the sea, the Galle Face Green, that comes alive in the evening with sightseers, couples, and kids flying kites. The city’s major museum, the National Museum of Colombo, has a good collection of historical religious artifacts and is housed in a magnificent colonial-era all-white building.
Beira Lake is a serene body of water in the middle of the city, while the Pettah district boasts one of the most attractive mosques you’ll ever see, the candy-striped Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque, and a bustling street market. There is also the slightly wacky and impressive Gangaramaya Buddhist temple, as well as Hindu temples with colorful gopuram towers. Last but not least, the Fort business district is filled with stately and elegant colonial-era architecture.
I hardly saw other tourists, with the exception of the museum and Gangaramaya temple, where there were a few Chinese and Western visitors. Walking around Fort district, I was even approached by a guy from one of the buildings who asked me a few questions. Actually, I did get approached by people several times on the street in Colombo, but they were tuktuk drivers or unofficial tour guides trying to hustle me into going on a city tour. This guy didn’t try to sell me anything and he was more well-dressed than the touts I’d encountered, so I think he was probably an employee of one of the government buildings.
If you go to Sri Lanka, by all means visit the nice beaches, the fortress of Galle, the ancient city ruins and the hilltop fortress of Sigiriya inland, the beautiful hill country, and the national parks. But, make sure to leave some time to explore Colombo too!
Approaching the Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque
Beira Lake
National Museum of Colombo
Pettah market
Fort District
The train to Colombo goes right by the sea
Gambaramaya Buddhist temple
