As the smallest and least populous of Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku is often overlooked by travellers. The island, nestled below where Honshu (Japan’s largest island) and Kyushu meet, provides visitors a more laid-back experience in Japan.such as an historic 88-temple pilgrimage route, remote valleys, and rugged coastal scenery facing the Pacific. My brief experience of Shikoku was visiting its biggest city Matsuyama, which is across the Seto Inland Sea from Hiroshima (and just a two-hour car ferry or one-hour fast ferry ride away).

Matsuyama is a mid-sized city that features three key attractions- a hilltop castle, a legendary onsen, and a well-known temple that is part of the 88-temple 1,200-km pilgrimage. Having arrived in Matsuyama by car ferry from Hiroshima, the city seemed low-key and quiet, though by no means backwards. As with Hiroshima, its main form of public transit was street tram, a few of which were equipped with free wi-fi.

Matsuyama Castle is perched atop Mt Katsuyama and overlooks the city, still standing sentry in the 21st century as it has since the early 17th century. It is one of Japan’s 12 “original castles,” meaning it was not destroyed during the 19th century or World War II as many castles were (for eg Osaka Castle). However, Matsuyama Castle is not quite original, because it was rebuilt during the 19th century. It is an elegant gray-roofed castle with a sprawling layout. Inside its wooden hallways are displays of samurai armor and weaponry. There are several turrets that are good vantage points overlooking the hilltop and the surrounding cityscape of Matsuyama.

Dogo Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous spas. Its centerpiece is the Dogo Onsen Honkan, an attractive black, wooden building built in a traditional Japanese style. It is said that the imperial family have visited and used it in the past. Anybody can visit and use the baths, with different packages available (I paid for the most basic one and took a soak in a spa on the first floor). The most expensive package allows you to use a fancier spa on the second floor and see (but not use) the facility reserved for the emperor.

There are two newer bathhouses located just 100 meters away from the Honkan. The alley leading to Dogo Onsen from the tram station, which is the terminus for all lines, is filled with shops and eating places.

At the tram station is the Botchan Karakuri Clock, a giant cuckoo clock featuring characters from a famous Japanese novel called Botchan. The tram station itself is an elegant wooden building constructed in 1895 and features a small old-time steam locomotive.

Ishiteji Temple is Matsuyama’s most famous Buddhist temple, having been built in the 8th century. Located in a large compound about 20 minutes’ walk from Dogo Onsen, Ishiteji features a pagoda and several halls. Behind the temple is a tunnel leading to a road that then leads to Ishiteji’s bizarre inner temple, a golden dome-like structure surrounded by many statues. Above the temple is a hillside with trails that lead into a bamboo forest and several graves.

Closer to Dogo Onsen is Isaniwa Shrine, where several emperors and empress are enshrined. To get here, you climb up a flight of stone steps off the side of the road.

I didn’t spend much time in Matsuyama since I was on a multi-city trip nor did I go elsewhere on Shikoku, but believe me, there is much more to explore on this island.

Bochan Karakuri Clock, which features an elaborate ceremony where Bochan characters spring out once every hour, and steam locomotive (below) at Dogo Onsen tram station

Samurai suit on display in Matsuyama Castle
Approaching the castle
Isaniwa Shrine

Artwork inside Isaniwa Shrine

Ishiteji Temple (above and below)

Entrance to cave behind the temple
Bamboo forest on the hillside above the temple

One of Matsuyama’s street trams