As Japan’s fourth-largest city and the hub of the central Chubu region, Nagoya is one of Japan’s most important cities. But for travel, it’s not that famous. Now I like visiting different cities, so I decided to give Nagoya a try. That Nagoya lies between Tokyo and Osaka makes it easy to visit, though I think many visitors don’t spend too much time here.
My visit started off with Oasis 21, a white starship-shaped structure that covers an underground shopping and eating area and is topped by a transparent roof with a pool. Probably Nagoya’s most interesting landmark, Oasis 21 is also a good place to view the Nagoya Tower, a TV tower built in 1954, that is right across from it. There is also a small park that runs through and divides the boulevard on which Nagoya Tower is located.
All self-respecting Japanese cities have a castle and Nagoya is no different. Nagoya Castle is a mighty building that was originally built in 1610. However, it was destroyed during World War II by aerial bombs, so this is a reconstruction. Topped with a green roof, the huge, five-story castle is surrounded by a moat and lies inside a park. Inside the castle are displays and samurai armour and weapons, while at the top, you can enjoy a 360-degree view of the park and the city.
Within the grounds and next to the castle, there is a smaller single-story building, the Hommaru Palace, that was the residence and audience hall of the son of the castle’s builder Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of Japan’s greatest shoguns who founded the Tokugawa shogunate which ruled Japan for over 260 years. The Hommaru, a more recent reconstruction, is a wooden building that features golden decor and artistic screens.
Nagoya City Museum is a small history museum and art gallery. The second floor features historical exhibits, which unfortunately have no English information, while the third floor features several rooms filled with decent paintings. The exhibits were a bit sparse, which was disappointing considering the region is where three of Japan’s greatest military leaders, including Ieyasu, were from. There were prehistoric exhibits, including human skeletons; samurai weapons and a bust of Ieyasu; and exhibits from World War II and post-war Japan.
On the first floor was a “Peter Rabbit” special exhibition, which I almost accidentally bought a ticket to because I didn’t realize the museum’s permanent exhibits were on the second floor. Luckily, the counter staff had said “Peter Rabbit” while speaking Japanese to me (which I don’t understand a single word of) so when I uttered “no Peter Rabbit,” she pointed me upstairs.
When I entered the actual museum, I was the only non-Japanese and just one of a handful of visitors. On the third floor, I was the only non-Japanese and person under 50 as there was a bunch of Japanese seniors. I got a few friendly greetings from staff seated outside each room, but I also got hostile glares and words from staff at one table, which struck me as odd (it’s a myth that all Japanese are polite).
The Atsuta Shrine is not just the city’s most historic temple, located within a park, but one of the country’s most important shrines. Said to have been founded over 1,800 years ago, Atsuta Shrine is also where several gods and deities are enshrined. However, there is no English at the temple or the nearby small museum, so foreign, non-Japanese-speaking visitors won’t find it very interesting. The museum did feature a giant sword (see below) at the entrance, which was much longer than me! I think it can only be wielded by someone on horseback.
Osu Kannon is a popular Buddhist temple where Kannon, the goddess of mercy, is worshiped. Next to the temple is the Osu Shopping Arcade, a large covered pedestrian shopping street. Both are decent to visit, with the shopping arcade featuring some good eating places such as fried chicken stalls (I bought from both a Japanese and a Taiwanese outlets).
The only problem is that the shopping arcade was almost deserted when I visited though the shops were all open. I went there on two consecutive evenings and both times, there were hardly any visitors there. This was a stark difference from shopping streets in other cities like Hiroshima which were newer and much more busier. Near the arcade are quiet lanes that have a few bars and even a shrine.
I didn’t spend much time in downtown Nagoya except to get to and from Nagoya Train station and take a brief walk to see Mode Gakuen Spiral Towers, whose exterior is covered by two swirling metallic layers, giving it a sort of twisted appearance. There is also a steel spiral sculpture on a nearby roundabout, which looks interesting.
I also did a quick half-day trip to Inuyama, a town on the outskirts of Nagoya, to see its castle, one of Japan’s few surviving authentic old castles (as mentioned, Nagoya’s castle was a rebuilt version).
I wish I could say Nagoya is underrated and a hidden gem, but I really can’t. The city didn’t appeal to me much, especially given some of its attractions were either dull or not geared for foreign visitors. Or in the case of Osu Shopping Arcade, almost empty. That said, I didn’t go to the harbourfront area, where the city’s aquarium is, or visit Nagoya’s arts museums, which are said to hold really good collections. I got a cold, faded vibe from the city, and a large proportion of the population, whether in places like the museum or on the subway, were seniors which added to the sense of the city as a bit gloomy (please note I have nothing against old people!).
Nagoya Tower, seen from the roof of Oasis 21
Under Oasis 21
Aztec sculpture gifted from Mexico
Osu Kannon temple and Osu Shopping Arcade (below)
Nagoya Castle
View from on top of the castle
Samurai suit on display inside the castle
Hommaru Palace, where the lord’s son resided, inside the castle grounds
Nagoya City Museum exhibits (above and next two photos below)
Atsuta Shrine (above and below)
